A Brief History of Bodysurfing and Why You Should Try It Too.
As I wrestled my way into my winter wetsuit, I gave a nod to one of the locals I have come to know quite well during my outings to one of Tiree’s many stunning beaches, and headed out towards the white a-frame peaks. This winter I discovered the art of body surfing with hand boards on the Isle Of Tiree, and it has had me addicted. A paddle into the curve of a wave, a quick drop down the face and then I’d be off along the peeling line.
It is not an unusual experience to be asked, whilst getting changed in a make-shift car park (aside from the obvious question of being in the water in the norther hemisphere in the depth of winter), what it is I am doing out there, what the board is I am using, how it works, and more importantly, how it feels. I also often get asked if it is a new sport and where it originated. So I decided to delve a little deeper into the history of bodysurfing and explain why you should try it too.
The history of body surfing is quite extensive, and has roots all over the world. It existed long before the first handboards were used in Hawaii, and continues to inspire surfers and swimmers alike. From the first days in Polynesia, to competitions in California and the recent resurgence, bodysurfing will never grow old. For me, the feeling of being in the water with my handplane is simply addictive. Cold water helps me to manage stress and body surfing helps to keep me fit. The social aspects are another great reason for getting involved. In the UK alone there are hundreds of beaches to give it a go – The coastlines of the Inner Hebrides offer a beach for every kind of weather, the Isle of Tiree has 23 of them. With such a rich history, and with it being just on our doorstep, I personally think everyone should give body surfing a try.
As I write this, there is an almost perfect swell hitting the UK Coastline. Corduroy sets line our beaches, in some places double-overhead. A couple of fellow mainlanders fill line ups, having seen it coming and jumped on the ferry to experience our world class waves. It is winter, it is cold, and the surf is firing.
We have been lucky enough to have a couple of days of brilliant crisp weather, of glimpses of warm sunshine and of bright blue skies. The wind has been still and the surf is looking awe-inspiring. With the dark nights finally pulling back, it would be a criminal act to not make use of the near-perfect conditions.
Why bodysurf?
When we look at why people bodysurf today, and why you should get involved if you are not already, I think it is important to take into account the history of the sport. Like many outdoor sports, bodysurfing offers a culture that takes a lot of its quirks from the past and incorporates them into the modern day line-up.
Of course this is not the only reason that people bodysurf and, I believe, why more people should bodysurf too. My own personal reasons are pretty extensive, and having spoken to surfers up and down our coastline (some with pretty high competition accolades!) I know that it is not unusual. But the timeline of body surfing is longer than you would imagine, and is a vital aspect of the surf community – And that community is one of the epic highlights of bodysurfing that continues to pull me back to the sea.
Here are my top five reasons I get into the sea with my board:
1. I am addicted to the feeling
2. Cold water helps me manage stress, and is good for my health
3. I love the surf culture, and being part of a wider social circle
4. Surfing increases all my levels of fitness; strength, balance, cardio ability
5. I never regret it
Since becoming more heavily involved with the national surfing community, I’ve heard various different stories of the birthplace of bodysurfing. It is quite well documented that the first board surfers were found in Hawaii, and all surfing countries can find the roots of their board surfing on that tiny island in the Pacific, however there is little documented history of bodysurfing.
There is speculation about early humans being inspired by watching wave-riding animals, such as fish or dolphins, and trying to emulate their behaviour – although those are only theories. I’ve also heard stories about Captain Cook, and about the Polynesia. Whenever these stories are told it is with excitement and passion, which is understandable - Quite often the history of these extreme sports is considerably more extreme than we consider it in the modern day.
Despite being inundated with friends and locals giving me their own take on where bodysurfing started, researching the topic has introduced some surprising facts. The history is quite rich, and wonderful, and still plays a big part in surfing today.
The first documented bodysurfing
The invention of body surfing is accredited to Captain James Cook, although it would probably be more accurate to say that Captain Cook was the first documented European to give the sport a go – whilst exploring Tahiti, Polynesia, in 1769.
Before then, despite being the purest form of surfing, there is little documented knowledge of the sport of body surfing.
After watching local Polynesians, Captain Cook and his men took the opportunity to try to catch large waves that are a particular feature of the island. Having not yet been exposed to other cultures that would ‘wave-slide’, they had no boards to help them and so used their bodies to ride waves.
Body surfing itself is thought to have been started long before board surfing and, according to the Anthropologists at the University of Hawaii, that could date back to 2000BC.
It’s easy to see why it grew in popularity so quickly when first founded in the 18th century. For me the joy of body surfing is how inherently physical it is. There is no better feeling than flying into wave unencumbered by any extra weight. It’s just you, your own ability, and the sea. There’s the first rush of adrenaline as you feel the wave pick you up, and the anticipation of the drop – then you’re off down the face. The speed of the take-off always gives me this sense of being at one with the sea. Rather than being on top of it, as you would be on a surfboard, you’re much more a part of the process.
I have no doubt that, 300 years ago, when the first pioneers for body surfing caught their very first wave; they had the same rush that we get today.
The Popularity of Body Surfing Grows
Body surfing seems to have taken off internationally in the 1800s, some 100 years since Captain James Cook was introduced to it in Polynesia.
The sport made its way to Australia in 1899, with the arrival of Polynesian Tommy Tanna. Before that, there is no documented history of body surfing in any of the more well-known surf destinations (Other than Hawaii). Tanna taught the Australian Fred Williams how to bodysurf on the warm beaches of Sydney, who then spread it through the local community.
Bodysurfing reached the United States at around the same time, but really became popularised in the 1920s. According to documented history, Olympic Swimmer Wally O’Connor drew a crowd by diving underwater and catching waves on the local beaches of Los Angeles.
"Surf-Riding is a Favourite Summertime Sport,"
Life Magazine, 1940
Los Angeles was the birthplace of bodysurfing in the USA. In 1931 Ron Drummond published ‘The Art of Wave-Riding’. It is now incredibly difficult to get hold of a copy of this book. I’ve tried, but as far as I can tell there are only somewhere between 200-500 copies that were ever printed. It is considered a classic of surf literature, and offers 26 pages of guidance on how to ‘wave surf.’
By the time the Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic was held for the first time in 1971 (the first surf competition ever held at the Banzai Pipline on Oahu), bodysurfing was very popular in the United States. With the rise of competitions like Pipeline, this popularity continued to grow for another decade.
The modern day resurgence of Bodysurfing
Unfortunately, by the 1990s body surfing had all but died out. Bodysurfing is one of the least publicised forms of surfing, which resulted in it being described as “the lost art”. It had passed through its golden era, gained popularity for its purity, and then had not been able to compete with the glossy and impressive images that surfing could produce.
Thankfully, a small pocket of bodysurf enthusiasts were keeping the sport alive- and competing regularly enough for it to be primed and ready for a resurgence at any time.
And it looks like that time is now.
In the last decade, we’ve certainly seen a return to body surfing as a popular sport of choice – Hand paddles and belly boards are making a return to shops, and are treasured as a statement of tradition and purity. Made out of more traditional materials such as wood, they seem to be becoming increasingly more popular.
I would highly recommend watching Come Hell or High Water, a fantastic film by Keith Malloy and presented by Patagonia and NIXON. It explores the history of bodysurfing, and the pureness that the sport offers.
“bodysurfing became an escape from surfing. It was riding a wave for the pure enjoyment of riding a wave, and not trying to do anything too incredible but enjoy the ride”
Over more recent years, documentaries have had quite a significant impact over the direction of sports, and this is no exception. With the release came a resurgence of media, through online platforms and photography that have allowed a community connection for body surfers.
This has led to significant developments in the body surfing industry – we’ve seen the release of hand planes and fins that are more performance orientated than many probably thought possible. Like many, I first learned to bodysurf with no aid. I apparently have quite a quirky style, and I have heard many times that it is not the most effective.
Rather than racing into the wave with one arm stretched out in-front of me, I reach back with both my hands towards my hips. This arches my back, and pulls my shoulders up and out. As quite a small person, I don’t have the broadest chest to surf on, and I find this best maximises any potential chances of catching waves.
Having said that, since the development of sleek and effective handplanes, I have really noticed a difference in how successful my surfing trips are. The updated technology, and the ability to connect easier with the international community and share ideas and experiences, has led a dramatic increase in the popularity of bodysurfing. In the last decade in particular, bodysurfing has truly taken off as an alternative to the classic board surfing that has dominated magazines and shores for many years.
Bodysurfing has never been more popular, and more exciting to be a part of. It has a tumultuous history, and almost ceased to exist in the late 20th century – but now it is back with a vengeance and with it comes new and exciting technology to really maximise the experience. Fins and handplanes have never been more effective, such a high quality and so fun. In the early days, bodysurfing was just about the rush of catching a wave. Now the sport is being pushed to its absolute limit, with professionals and competitors using the equipment available to them to charge in bigger, scarier surf and to throw shapes that Captain James Cook and his crew probably never thought possible. Like any sport, there have been teething difficulties for bodysurfing, but now is the best time to be getting involved and giving it a go.